Steven Pierson interviewé par Killer Dana

vendredi 11 juin 2010

Article sur le surfer Tahitien du Team CoolShoe Steven Pierson sur le site Killer Dana :

Teahupo'o: A Tow In Experience

We've all seen those photos and movies at least once: little guys towed into massive walls of water and barely making it through the barrels. And we all know their names, from Hawaiian legends to WCT pro surfers and Tahitian big-wave riders.

And no matter how impressive those images can be (see my blog about this year's first big swell), towing-in has almost become common place. Yes, it's impressive, yes those surfers are amazingly talented (and I can't help thinking... maybe a little bit out of their mind as well), and that's what they're famous for, that's their job... they're used to doing this.

And even though almost everything has been written on the subject, I want to write something about it once again. Just from a different perspective. Today, I'd like to make you see this whole experience through the eyes of Steven Pierson, a young local surfer, who's been towing in with the big boys at Teahupo'o for just a few months now.

Cheat Sheet:

Name: Steven Pierson

Home town: Papara, South West side of Tahiti

Age: 25

Years surfing: 15

Favorite Break: Maoti Papara (home sweet home)

Current Occupation: free surfer

Sponsors: He'e Nalu, Teva Surfboards, Mundaka Optics, Cool Shoe Corporation, 69SLAM

1- If I tell you "tow in session", what thoughts cross your mind?

"Here in Tahiti, we can surf nearly every day because the conditions are just so good year-round. So you can basically wake up in the morning, do what you have to do and then decide to go out for your usual session. You know what I mean; you don't really have to plan anything.

But towing in is a whole different story... it's way more complex than that, we have to check the weather reports every single day to figure out what day will be THE day: everything has to fall into place perfectly: swell size and direction, period, as well as the wind speed and direction... everything has to line up for the conditions to be the ones we're waiting for."

2- Yeah, I bet it's not like surfing your usual reef break. How do you get ready for that kind of stuff?

"I'm a very active person, so being in shape is not really an issue for me: I surf a lot, I spear fish, I swim and practice some martial arts as well.

But your mind has to be in pretty good shape as well... to me, staying positive is the best way to get ready for those days; I want to trust myself and my abilities.

Plus you also have to make sure your equipment and your tow-in buddy are ready just as you are. And most importantly, you have to do this with someone you trust 100 %, someone who can read the elements, who can put you exactly where you have to be on the wave... and who won't be afraid to come get you when you're in trouble. It really is a matter of life and death - no mistakes allowed."

3- And how do you feel when the long-awaited big swell finally hits our reefs?

"I like to wake up super early in order to clear my mind and to eat a well-balanced meal which will provide me with lots of energy. Those days are very long you know, your body is under a lot of stress and pressure surfing and being towed-in all day. It's hard really... and it's even harder when you get wiped out.

When I get to the break, I check the conditions, but not for too long... otherwise I would end up changing my mind and staying on the boat all day (smile).

And once I am in the water,  I never  let my mind wander, I really have to stay focused, making sure I'm on the right spot all the time... and it's really hard to do at Teahupo'o: first, because the wave is so massive, so square and  so powerful. Second, because there is an incredible number of jet skis and surfers everywhere. Sometimes things even get a bit tense because every guy wants the biggest and most perfect wave. So yes, staying focused is one of the most difficult things to do out there.

Sometimes you can wait up to 2 hours to get a wave, because you wait for your turn and above all, you wait for the wave you really want to surf."

4- And how do you feel when the day is over?

"The first thing I do when I go back home is say thank you for such an incredible day and for making it home safe and sound. I also feel unbelievably calm. Then I wait for the photos and movies... to see if I got a good shot and if I were as deep as I thought (smile)."

5- Anything else you want to add?

"I'll just keep training as much as possible for those special days because I want to be able to surf bigger and bigger waves. I'll probably add some yoga to my usual training... I heard it helps (laughs). Also, I really want to thank my sponsors, especially Teva Bonno my shaper, and Yves and Poema from He'e Nalu. I wouldn't be towing-in if it wasn't for them. Thank you."

Career higlights

7-time French Polynesia champion

2002 :8^th place Junior world championship (Australia)

2004: 1^st place Quiksilver Surf'n'Co (Lacanau, France), 2nd Billabong pro junior* (Sopelana, Spain), 5th Billabong pro junior** (Ericeira, Portugal), 1^st WQS** Pantin classic Air Show

2005: 3rd Air show Kanabeach (Hourtin, France)

2006:4th Air Tahiti Nui Trials Teahupo'o (4^th WCT wild card), 5th WQS* contest (Cordoama, Portugal)

2007: Gold medalist at the South Pacific Games

2008: 1^st place - Tube Rider of the Taapuna Iron Master, 17^th place at the ISA world championship

2009: 1^st place - Extreme Surf Challenge (Tahiti & Biarritz)

-Vainui

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The Essence of CoolShoe is based on our love of the ocean , the fashion and the extrem sports. With deep roots in Californian beach culture, we are all about inclusion and positivity. Our brand was started in San Clemente (Ca.) with the idea of facilitating the dreams of the youth. Surf, Music and Art are the common threads that bring us all together. We are passionate about freedom of expression, best quality and originality. We place a premium on smiles. Welcome to our world... a Cool world.